The Caledonian Edinburgh, Curio Collection by Hilton review

• The Caledonian Edinburgh is a charming historic former railway hotel.
• Adjacent to the Princes Street Gardens, the location is perfect for seeing the sights in both Old Town and New Town.
• The warm and friendly staff make this property feel grand but homey.
• The hotel is worth a visit but will be closing temporarily later this year for much-needed renovations as part of its rebranding from a Waldorf Astoria.

Calling all fans of historical dramas on PBS: The Caledonian Edinburgh, Curio Collection by Hilton is the Scottish city stay of your dreams.

The hotel originally opened atop the Princes Street Railway Station in 1903, and today it incorporates some of the station’s remaining facilities, including its former entrance and main platform.

Walking the wide halls and grand staircases of the hotel, you would be forgiven for thinking you might run into Lady Mary from “Downton Abbey” around every corner, or wondering how much it costs to keep a valet these days. Similar to grand stateside resorts like the Omni Homestead Resort in Hot Springs, Virginia, or the Omni Mount Washington Resort in Bretton Woods, New Hampshire, there is an air of bygone grandeur evident in the gorgeous woodwork (and creaking floors), and life seems to slow to a more genteel pace within these walls.

What is The Caledonian Edinburgh, Curio Collection by Hilton?

The Caledonian Edinburgh, Curio Collection by Hilton was originally built by the Caledonian Railway Company to encourage travelers to use its train line to travel to Edinburgh. The hotel currently has 241 rooms, but the renovation getting underway later this year as part of its rebranding from a Waldorf Astoria to a Curio Collection hotel will bring the room count up to 300.

It’s unlikely that the changes will move the Caledonian — or “the Caley,” as it’s fondly called — away from its current Edwardian vibe, but be aware that you’ll likely see construction and changes through 2026.

How much the Caledonian Edinburgh costs and how to book it

Current rates at the Caledonian start at 178 British pounds ($230) or 54,000 Hilton Honors points per night. A two-bedroom suite like the one my family shared starts at 2,936 pounds ($3,803) per night.

When booking the Caledonian Edinburgh, you’ll want to use one of the credit cards that earn the most points for Hilton stays, as well as one that possibly offers automatic Hilton Honors elite status for value-added benefits. These include:

• Hilton Honors American Express Surpass® Card: Earn 12 points per dollar spent on eligible purchases at Hilton hotels, automatic Gold elite status and the ability to upgrade to Diamond status by spending $40,000 on eligible purchases in a calendar year.
• Hilton Honors American Express Business Card: Earn 12 points per dollar spent on eligible purchases at Hilton hotels, automatic Gold elite status and the ability to upgrade to Diamond status by spending $40,000 on eligible purchases in a calendar year.
• Hilton Honors American Express Card: Earn 7 points per dollar spent on eligible purchases at Hilton hotels and automatic Silver elite status (with an upgrade to Gold when you spend $20,000 in a calendar year).
• Hilton Honors American Express Aspire Card: Earn 14 points per dollar spent on eligible purchases at Hilton hotels and automatic Diamond elite status.

The information for the Hilton Aspire Card has been collected independently by The Points Guy. The card details on this page have not been reviewed or provided by the card issuer.

I was traveling with my husband and two kids for this stay and we originally booked a King Premier room connected to a Twin Premier room. My husband has the Hilton Aspire card from American Express, which gives him automatic Diamond status with Hilton.

That status paid off as we were upgraded to a large two-bedroom, three-bathroom suite with views of Edinburgh Castle. That status also provided two of us with complimentary breakfast daily during our stay, equating to about $80 per day in extra value. The hotel was not aware I was a member of the TPG staff there for a review, so the upgrade and breakfast benefit were based solely on my husband’s elite status.

We paid 1,674 British pounds ($2,139) for our two-night stay when we booked two connecting rooms. The current cost for a two-bedroom suite for the time of our stay (late March) would have been 7,889 British pounds ($10,081). So if you’re concerned about the Aspire’s $550 annual fee, if you stay at Hilton properties even a few times a year, you can still reap outsize value from the card. In our case, we got roughly 14 times the value of that fee in a single stay, not even including the free breakfast.

The information for the Hilton Aspire Card has been collected independently by The Points Guy. The card details on this page have not been reviewed or provided by the card issuer.

Rooms at the Caledonian Edinburgh

Our suite was spacious and upscale, though not truly luxurious. The beds were comfortable, but not remarkably so. There were thoughtful touches, like a Bluetooth speaker, Dyson hair dryer and yoga equipment, though, and the bathrooms were stocked with Aesop amenities, and each had a separate shower and free-standing tub.

Waiting for us when we entered the room were several bottles of water as well as a box of chocolates and a note from the manager — a nice touch, again thanks to my husband’s Diamond status.

If you’re a heavy packer, closet space will be an issue, as our rooms only had armoires, not full closets. Much of the space in the armoires was also taken up by amenities like the yoga equipment, hair dryer, umbrella and safe, so pack light.

The living room had a sofa with velvet armchairs as well as a small table that provided enough space for eating. The view of Edinburgh Castle while sitting at the table was postcard-worthy, and the perfect accompaniment for an afternoon spent writing.

The rooms weren’t perfect, however. There were several areas where the hotel’s age was apparent, and not in a good way. Paint was peeling in several spots, and some areas of the suite had acoustic panels for a ceiling — not exactly fitting the hotel’s overall feel and price point.

The shower in the bathroom I shared with my husband also had an extremely slow drain that caused us to nearly flood it each time we showered (and we’re fast showerers) and all three bathrooms lacked counter space.

Dust was evident on a few surfaces and some of the lamps did not work. These issues will likely be addressed during the renovation, but for now, don’t expect a pristine room.

I’d read in other articles about the Caledonian that road noise could intrude into the room as the hotel’s historic status limits the upgrades it can make to the windows. That wasn’t our experience, though. Even with a busy bus stop almost directly under our rooms, we slept soundly.

What we ate at the Caledonian Edinburgh

The Caledonian has two full restaurants from Scottish celebrity chefs: Dean Banks at The Pompadour and Grazing by Mark Greenaway, both of which are still at the hotel even after the reflagging. Since it was still a Waldorf Astoria during our spring stay, there was also an outpost of the chain’s Peacock Alley, which typically serves breakfast, light lunch and tea, though it was not doing so during our stay. The hotel’s traditional bar is called The Caley.

Although this space is likely being transformed right now, on our first night, my husband and I headed down to Peacock Alley for drinks. The hotel was aiming for a swanky, glamorous space like the Peacock Alleys at other Waldorf properties, and it came very close to succeeding. The space itself is very large since it used to be a main station entrance, with soaring ceilings. Two- and four-top tables and booths were scattered throughout, and on our evening there, a jazz quartet was playing. The mood was terrific, but the space felt too big for the purpose. You’d need at least a hundred people to make the lounge feel convivial.

In the morning, we all had breakfast at Grazing by Mark Greenaway. The extensive buffet featured American, continental and traditional Scottish options as well as fruit and yogurt for the health conscious. My family sampled dishes ranging from pancakes to haggis, and all were tasty — with the exception of the vegan haggis (who thought that was a good idea?). A standout was the make-your-own bloody mary bar — the perfect remedy for the morning after an Edinburgh pub crawl.

That evening, we had dinner at Grazing, too. I ordered a venison loin ($48), while my family enjoyed grilled salmon ($44) and a rib-eye ($51). I might be a little biased because venison is a favorite and I don’t get to have it often, but this dish was a highlight of my trip. The loin was crusted in cocoa, which sounds like it shouldn’t work, but it married with the meat’s flavor deliciously. The grilled Scottish salmon was done to pink perfection and the rib-eye was a rib-eye — juicy, but nothing special. For sides we had fries and macaroni and cheese ($7.60 each). Both were fine accompaniments, but again, nothing special.

Amenities and things to do

• The Caledonian has a pool and spa, though they can be difficult to find as they’re located deep within the recesses of the old train station. The pool has an attached hot tub and a sauna nearby. Changing facilities are available at the pool.
• The hotel is adjacent to the Princes Street Gardens and across the road from Johnnie Walker Princes Street. It’s an easy stroll to the Scott Monument, the National Galleries of Scotland, and the shopping and dining areas in New Town.
• While the hotel is close to Edinburgh Castle, unless you brought your rock climbing equipment, you’ll be in for a hike. To get to the castle and the attractions in Old Town, you’ll have roughly a 3/4-mile walk, with much of it up a steep hill. It’s 1 1/2 miles to the Palace at Holyrood House and 3 miles to the Royal Yacht Britannia.
• Take time to speak with the doorman, clerks and restaurant staff. All are warm and friendly and are happy to tell you insider stories about the property and make local recommendations.
• The Caledonian is in a historic building which can lead to some accessibility challenges. The elevators are small but should fit most mobility aids. Space for bags or other passengers will be limited, though. Hallways and doorways are wide, however, and the hallways themselves are bright. There are accessible rooms with 32-inch doorways and grab bars in the bathrooms. The sauna, pool and hot tub are not accessible. For more details, and to ensure the Caledonian can give you a comfortable stay, contact the hotel directly.

Bottom line

I wish The Caledonian Edinburgh, Curio Collection by Hilton had a shorter name, but I also wish I had a longer stay there.

While its historic feel may not appeal to all travelers, the atmosphere is excellent for history and architecture buffs. The location is tough to beat, allowing you close access to attractions and local neighborhoods alike. The dining options are good, but given the burgeoning restaurant scene in Edinburgh, you’ll want to venture farther afield for a truly incredible culinary experience.

The hotel was not up to Waldorf standards of luxury during our stay, despite its high price point, and the age of the building brings in a few other kinks, so we’re excited about the renovation and rebranding. Here’s hoping the hotel continues to please guests with its Old World charms and inviting staff for decades to come, and that redeeming points there remains easy.